Drakensberg Grand Traverse – Day 1/10

21.1km 996 ascent

A slightly surreal feeling. After a lot of comms, logistics and planning, a hike is still a hike, and starts off just like any other, except that there are a lot more thoughts and scenarios going through the mind as we wind up the familiar Sentinel tracks. The latest weather forecasts are usually front and center, and we had received good news the night before. Nothing but sunshine for the foreseeable future. A few days earlier all forecasts were high winds and day time temperatures below -15•C. There was slight panic through the crew, but my gut told me it had to be one of those temp glitches in technology. So here we were eventually heading off on a 10 day (hopefully) adventure. The first few km’s always give a pretty good indication of the group speed and where people like to position themselves. Today is no different, and, so far, no need for alarm. The plan was to head off at 9 day pace so that we had some slack for any weather or unforeseen delays. The first 3 days is going to be key in that endeavour. Day 1 involves a direct route to Mbundini. Not too far, but a decent warm up and acclimatising day. First we overtake the day hikers, then we traverse a usually simple ledge with the chain, only this morning it is iced up and pretty treacherous. Then to the chain ladders (‘nice one; no one is visibly afraid of heights or lacking co-ords’)
And now the hike begins. Tugela is misted up so we skip the viewpoint and wind down into Lesotho, along the beautiful banks of the Kubedu river, into the valley below Stimela Peak. Lunch at the river, followed by a gentle climb up the valley, to the first appearance of the impressive views down to Mbundini and across the Mnweni cutback. Amble down the steep descent to a good first bathing point (4/6 took the plunge; pretty decent stats) and up to our first camp. Apart from a Grey tit lifer for the birders, no major news. Everyone’s in good spirits, we marvel at Pierre’s snack bag that has been prepared by an actuarial scientist… The trail food meals go down super well and we’re in the tents for hot chocolate before 7pm. Well, everyone except Rachel who has been fast asleep since 6:15pm.

Drakensberg Grand Traverse – Day 2/10
25.7km 819 ascent, 935 descent

A lot of frantic zips and someone disappearing into the cold moonlight with a trowel at 1am. The body can take time adjusting to the altitude, new food, and the quantity of food needed to maintain on a long trek. Fortunately for this hiker it was a one off. After a bad sleep personally, and a negative training readiness score, the sun still comes up and day 2 must begin! The Drakensberg grand traverse is more of a march than a standard hike, without the luxury of late starts and long breaks to soak in the scenery. That being said a sunrise at Madonna was one indulgence we couldn’t miss, and it certainly didn’t disappoint (certain people on social media even accused me of faking images).

We are a little late heading off at 7:40am but make good speed around the back of Ranqwa and Pins towards Mnweni. I had planned to take the path into the cutback for the spectacular scenery but the mist rolled in mid morning so we take a more direct route towards North Peak. This was to be the only day that our views were obscured, and considering the previous few months conditions, we will gladly take that stat. Sad to miss Mnweni and the vulture colony over the Rockeries but I guess what you don’t see you don’t miss. After a cold lunch at a fairly obscure spot we trudge on, closely packed, in the thick mist. One of the hikers starts to slow on the final ascent up the back of South Peak and is feeling a little sick. Altitude? fatigue? A bad lunch? Or a combination? Either way we’ve made good time and can take it easy. The atmosphere changes as we descend into the Kwakwatsi valley and there is a sense a shift of weather. Within seconds the mist evaporates and the  valleys and peaks are awash in late afternoon sunshine. In this moment you appreciate the tangible link between a hikers spirit and the weather conditions; something you take for granted when it’s in your favour.
We cross the mountain highway above Ntonjelana before heading gradually up the valley to find a decent campsite. I catch a rare glimpse of a jackal just ahead on the path and a moment later he appears a few hundred meters higher up the ridge. l’m used to seeing jackals slink off leisurely but in these parts they are enemy number 1 and are wise enough to dread anything on two legs… particularly since most shepherds have dogs in tow.
We don’t quite make it to the spot I was aiming for but settle for a decent ridge above the river and quickly set about getting water, tents up and dinner on the go. Sebastian hasn’t eaten for a good half hour and is ravenous. The forecast is for -4•C and a lot of frost, so we waste no time in blowing up mats and getting into the sleeping bags. Only 2 takers for a post dinner hot chocolate, no one is keen to be taking toilet breaks tonight.

Drakensberg Grand Traverse – Day 3/10
25.96km  1482m ascent, 1153m descent

Day 3 was always going to be one of reckoning. Apart from the distance, the plan was to make a final push from the low lying valley of Yodelers cascades up to Didima cave at the end of the day. Over 500m ascending during which setting up camp is not really possible. Make it to the top and we would be bang on schedule, camp near the base and it would put a big dent in the plans. Before getting too far ahead of ourselves we had some spectacular terrain to move through before reaching Yodelers.  But first, breakfast. Sebastian had promised us 3 eggs tortilla breakfasts on the journey and today is his first moment to shine. The dried eggs are soaking in a ziplock (sounds delicious), the skillet comes out and I’m tasked with cutting up 1/3 of the Parmesan block. The result is by far the best berg breakfast I’ve had the pleasure of consuming. Dried eggs have come a long way since church camps in the late 80s. Backpacks on at 7:10 and we head gradually up the valley towards the Elephant. After a brief delay and a successful retrieval of a phone dropped at the previous water crossing (thanks to gps backtrack) we catch some rays, together with a small herd of rhebuck, at the top of Elephant gully before descending into its deep shady slopes. It’s our first real glimpse into the valleys of Kwazulu-Natal, the rivers still full and glistening, the contrasting hills are desaturating daily after the recent frosts, and fire breaks are already smoldering in the lower areas. I highly recommend hiking this unique escarpment gully (look out for its Jenga like rock feature as a small reminder of who formed these peaks)
Progress has been a little slow as we head up towards Cleft and I opt for the route around the back to avoid the additional climb but mainly the nasty descent near the top. Our group agreed at the start that we were content with passing by the usual grand traverse peaks without literally summiting them. Never been a stickler for ticking off peaks but if we need to downgrade our grand to great in certain circles, then so bit it. The great traverse continued past the icy edges of Cleft and up the always surprisingly steep climb up to Ndumeni. Early arrivers at the top take a quick trip into Rolands cave, before we descend down into Yodelers for a well earned lunch. The frosty wet tents come out for a dry, and soup and bread never tasted so good. Meandering down Yodelers, I’m keenly aware of the time and a possible cut off on when we need to start ascending Didima. No breaks for a long stretch gets us there just after 3pm. The group is showing some signs of wariness but we need to press on. Water collected, gums and snacks taken on board and we set off. The pace is decent for the first 90% before the wheels somewhat fall off. Nausea is a curse when you’re at home in cosy confines. When you’re carrying a load up an unknown mountain and the shadows are lengthening it’s really disheartening. Despite the struggle, spirits remain unbroken and we progress slowly into the night towards our metaphorical and physical cave. Traditionally (and on my gps routes) you head up to Yodelers peak and backtrack down to the cave. I’ve done an easier contour that breaks off earlier and also passes water on the way. But that was in daylight and I didn’t record it.  At night it was going to be a little tricky but we needed water before camp and definitely didn’t need more ascent. I track a little ahead of the group to check the route amongst the rocky outcrops and drop offs. By the time we reach the water and are just a few hundred meters from finishing, our pace has slowed dramatically but we’re just about on the main path to the cave. Some dim lights up ahead on the path. Surely there aren’t other people just about to inhabit the cave! Fortunately it’s just our headlights catching a herd of ponies. We finally arrive at our hotel and a few bodies collapse at the entrance. 7:15pm. At least we don’t have to put up tents and everyone is still conversing (albeit in very short sentences) and able to eat something. 4 members nest in the beautifully protected area behind the stonewall and Pierre and I remain closer to the mouth with a great view of the moon and stars. Before I fall asleep I run a few scenarios through my head and bounce them off Pierre. We are successfully on target but the crew are not going to endure another day like today. Is a good nights sleep going to reset the sick and wary? Or are the coughs I’m hearing and the illness experienced today the start of something more serious on the altitude sickness scale? Mentally how are they coping?  Do not worry about tomorrow because today had enough troubles of its own! But before I sleep I want to be settled on plans for those possible outcomes in the morning. 

Drakensberg Grand Traverse – Day 4/10
18.37km  487 ascent, 636 descent

A ‘rest day’. Like day 3, the initial day 4 plan was a decent climb at the end of the day towards Mafadi. After yesterday’s tough finish I ruled that one out, and decided to make day 4 a cruise and recovery day. This would mean only two adjustments to the schedule. 1. I would need to go ahead of the group on day 5 to reach our resupply on time. 2. We would start walking at first light on days 5-7 to catch up lost time. Fortunately everyone wakes up well rested, and more importantly, showing no symptoms of altitude sickness. The revised plan is met with a combo of relief and enthusiasm; a perfect sunrise and ideal conditions making the mood even brighter. We set off and reconnect with the donkey track towards the Monks Cowl region, making steady progress on an ancient trail, before branching right towards Champagne Castle. In ascending the ridge up towards Ships Prow we encounter shepherds and their hunting dogs for the first time. A few short weeks ago, we would have seen a lot more of these tough young men, but the early onset of winter has seen many of them and their flocks retreating to lower ground. I believe many hikers are under an illusion that paying for a hiking permit in SA somehow buys you the right to walk through unhindered and camp in what are essentially the farm lands of others. There is a common understanding that it’s permissible, but it’s still important and fitting to show appreciation and respect. There are a lot of theories and opinions on hand outs, etc but just as a wife is more impressed with flowers than a smile, a small gift speaks louder than a nod and a wave. Cigarettes are an easy, lightweight and culturally accepted currency. (Handed out with your right hand and not the left) and I’ve started carrying small solar Sesotho audio bible devices which are also joyfully accepted. An odd combo in our western world, but I once heard a fantastic story of a man handing out mini Gideon bibles, of which the thin pages made for handy cigarette rolling. His deal with the man was that he needed to read the page before smoking it. He made it as far as John 3:16 and the rest of the Bible remained in tact!
Anyway, back to hiking, and after leaving our new friends to continue their hunt, we descended down into Leslie’s valley for lunch at the nearest stream. With the end of the day in sight 9km down the valley, we took an extended lunch and I did a little bit of clothes washing (dry bags make great washing machines). The meander through the never ending Leslie valley followed and the end seemed like a mirage that never got closer. It’s amazing how the mind adjusts to a perceived finish and the body follows obediently. 25km hike and after 20 you feel great. 20km and by 18 you’re wondering if it’s ever going to end! Either way, by 3:30pm we’re having a swim in the river, and a first real ‘tea time’ chill. Woolworths yoghurt digestives doing a roaring trade. It takes a little while to settle on a decent camp area, but after a bit of cow paddy and sharp twigs removal, the tents are up and the happy crew are well reset for the next couple days endeavours. 

Drakensberg Grand Traverse – Day 5/10
24.63km  1,235 ascent, 1,322 descent

I’m not sure everyone believed I would have the hot water ready at 4:30am but after a 7pm bedtime, everyone seems quite ready for coffee and breakfast. Another dry morning makes for an easy pack up and by 6:15am we’re heading up towards Mafadi. As the sun comes up the never ending Leslie valley lies behind us, the Injisuthi triplets to our left, and South Africa’s highest peak ahead. By 8:15am we’re  pretty much at our planned start for day 5, and heading down a clear trail towards the top of Judges pass. 12km ahead of us our resupply awaits, so I gather everyone’s trash and push ahead of the group to make it on time. I’m not a fan of solo hiking or leaving my crew with my assistant, but having briefed co-pilot Pierre the night before, enjoying stable weather, and having a number of GPS devices in hand (including 2-way satellite comms between us) I’m confident in the plan.
Down and passed Judges, up and over Popple, down and up to Bannerman’s, and up, over and down to the river confluence near Langalibelele. It dawns on me that this is my first solo stroll along the high berg. It feels a little like the difference between game viewing by car and by foot. The environment, the elements, everything is slightly heightened. I can see why it appeals to many adventurers, but I’m not going to make a habit of it just yet. A lonely figure standing next to the river a few km’s ahead. It has to be solo resupply hiker, Veza, from umphafa. The plan was to meet between 12-1pm. It’s only just gone 11, but I’m soon to learn that he actually camped there the night before, having carted his overnight gear and our 13kg resupply the previous day. It’s always a relief that all went to plan, and as the ever reliable Veza makes his way back towards the pass, I’m tucking into my resupply goods and enjoying a good solo bath. News comes through from the team that they are on track and lunching at Bannerman’s, and they are encouraged into action by the news of fresh snack packs over the hill. When they arrive a while later the mood is jovial. Sebastian takes a waist high dip with his down jacket on to celebrate. Another berg first! We almost forget that we’ve still got a way to go today, and we’re soon heading off up towards Mt Durnford. Along the same route he and his men made a hasty retreat in the Langibelele battle. During one of many breaks on the ascent I retell (to my best memory) the epic story of what took place in this area just over 150 years ago. A momentary distraction from the steep climb that ends in a scramble over the final ridge, before we head down into the valley below Long Wall. An easy glide down to the camp is only hindered by some worrying news. A tendon on Helen’s shin is suddenly causing quite a lot of pain. Her and Kerry have been in formidable form so far, and for her to even mention it, I’m aware it must be more than a niggle. As she limps into camp it’ll have to be another ‘see how it is in the morning’ scenario. 

Drakensberg Grand Traverse – Day 6/10
27.76km  952m ascent, 1,145m descent

In a strange way, making it passed the halfway mark provides an illusion that it’s downhill from here. A lot of the mental preparation was focused on getting to the first resupply point. Somewhere in my mind, I believed if we were in good shape after the more strenuous first half, our conditioning would see us through comfortably to the end. The weather continued to be a ideal, the nausea and fatigue from the first few days was well behind us, but a surprise injury to Helen as we approached the end of day 5 had thrown a small spanner. Fortunately the pain had subsided and after some good strapping and a few pills, we were about to see how serious it was. And whilst we were now accustomed to marching from dawn to dusk, we were still in catch up mode and unbeknown to the group I was hoping to march us all the way to our day 6 target below Thabana Ntlenyana. Whatever ground we could cover today was going to increase our rest and recovery near the top of Sani tomorrow. Our camp was close to the escarpment edge and I take the crew on a slight meander to catch the sunrise towards Giants Castle. It’s got to be one of the most iconic and beautiful pieces of basalt in the berg; forming the corner separating the central and southern Drakensberg and therefore prominent in the skyline from so many parts of KZN. I think back to a clear winters day about 30 years ago at boarding school in Botha’s Hill… staring at the great Giant half covered in snow (150km away). Homesick and routine bound, the sight had triggered an afternoon of berg day dreaming. Camping, fly fishing, braais and family.
As the sun’s first rays glowed on the Giant this morning, we are a world away from the distant towns below us, and the days first climb lies ahead. We’re now firm believers in starting rather than ending the day with a climb and we make short work of the ascent before descending into the beautiful valley housing the Tent and the Hawk. Vast grassy fairways flank the river up towards Redi, with a fair bit of marsh hopping needed. A secretary bird searches for food in the distance, and we manage to get a little closer than usual to this magnificent bird. Ironically it’s us rather than him that stumble upon the lonely berg adder making no attempt to hide. The first  I’ve seen in Lesotho and the fattest by far. After slogging up Redi and around the escarpment edge we once again descend into Lesotho valleys, where clearer paths and more even terrain speed up our progress. Crossing over an incredible natural stone bridge, passed ancient homesteads, and through telly tubby esque streams and fields. The snow patched slopes of Thabana Ntlenyana come into view and we push on a few extra kilometers on a perfect evening, to make camp just in time for setting up on natural light. Helen’s shin has held up extremely well, however Sebastian’s knee is causing him a lot of pain on the descents. Something we can assess tomorrow, but for now everyone is content in the flat camp next to the river having smashed out 28km to make tomorrow a doddle in comparison. What a team! Dinner, hot chocolate, brush teeth, bed. Doze off, turn, wake up, turn, sleep. 

Drakensberg Grand Traverse – Day 7/10
19.15km  851m ascent, 879m descent

There is a renewed zeal in camp this morning. Thoughts of summiting the highest peak in Southern Africa, seeing other people and (slightly more so) enjoying the treats they’ll be bringing in. The day will end near the top of Sani Pass (a 4×4 track that is the gateway into and out of southern Lesotho) Usually hikers spend the night at the highest pub in Africa and the backpackers, but we will be at the highest church with my friend Pastor Thato. Friends, Paul and Zach, are driving in from Durban with fresh supplies and if all goes well we should get there around 3pm. Sebastian’s knee has unfortunately deteriorated and he wisely decides that today will be his finale. The descending towards the end of the traverse is going to risk too much pain, and potential long term damage, and he’s content that ‘Sentinel to Sani’ has a good ring for his upcoming book on the 5 best multi day hikes around the world. He takes the opportunity to bless us with another egg and cheese breakfast, and it’s at this time that he confesses he didn’t bring a headlamp because a lightweight YouTuber  recommended it’s not really necessary if you have a torch on your phone. Sound advice when you’re counting the grams but we all have a good laugh and appreciate that the weight saved was more than worth the 2 or 3 headlamps worth of weight in fried butter he shared in the cook ups. Never mind the 300g block of Parmesan!
It’s a stunning morning as we head up the gentle valley under the eastern slopes of Thabana Ntlenyana. The path winds up a gentle stream, passed some of the most impressive shepherd homesteads in Lesotho. We’ve started early enough to just beat the sheep coming out of their kraals, and as we begin the real ascent, the temperature is the standard ‘just too cold for shirt, just too warm for windbreaker’. The climb is a little easier than you would expect, and before long we are traversing across the saddle towards the snow patches near the peak. Signal allows us to talk to Paul at the famous Underberg Spar with some final requests, and a flurry of snow photos ensue. It’s a symbolic topping out of the hike, especially since it’s Sebastian’s final day, and whilst we still have a way to go, it’s a moment to be proud of what has already been accomplished.  Temps are a good deal lower as we start descending and we lunch at the first river, allowing an ice bath for the knee, and a no holding back hoovering of leftover snacks before a resupply. As we go over the last small incline, Pastor Thato’s church and home come into picture and we zero in on the finish line. The final 7km winding down the valley and across marshy grazing patches takes longer than expected, but the spirits are not dented, and we push on. I decide to head on a slightly longer path to the bridge and road, but Sebastian is having none of it. He makes a bee line for the church, through the fynbos and over the river, a better route, that we end up following, and he fittingly leads us home on his final stretch. A welcome party awaits as we remove our shoes for the first time to cross a river, and an afternoon of tea, coffee, chocolate milks, coke, juice, chips, chocolate, chuckles, rusks, biscuits follows. Chairs and a table: Luxury. A warm tub bath and a rondavel: Paradise. Dinner of lasagne and bread, traditionally cooked in a pot on compressed sheep dung coals, is the climax, and we then wind down the evening with hot chocolate and koeksisters whilst Pastor Thato tells stories and answers questions about life in Lesotho. A suitable end to a day we will never forget. Breakfast will be at 5:30 rather than 4:30 tomorrow! More  spoils.. I’m worried this group is going to descend into disorder!  

Drakensberg Grand Traverse – Day 8/10
19.92km  902m ascent, 779m descent

Morning of day 8 and the boys filter through to the church kitchen to help prepare a sweet millie pap porridge starter, followed by eggs, bacon, sausage and bread. The ladies sleep through alarms and co-incidentally arrive just in time to eat. A shorter day awaits, so we take our time and enjoy a talk which Thato usually delivers to tourists. He insists that we all don the incredibly comfy blanket with other traditional garb, including the famous Basotho hat. Ancient traditions, but still very much in use amongst the shepherds today. In deepest winter I often pass young men with only gumboots, shorts/underwear, and a blanket. Thato puts us on the path heading directly from his home towards the escarpment, and we wave goodbye to our new friends and comforts. Zach and Sebastian head back down Sani in the VW, and Paul has joined us for the final 3 days. Friend, brother, and hiking +business mentor, it’s great to have him along for the final chapter in his 60th cycle around the sun. The first half of the day is a fairly uninteresting process of covering ground through a few valleys, before we reach the escarpment views near the Rhino. Heading over a fairly insignificant ridge, the world just lights up within a single step. Traversing the escarpment gifts a number of such moments, which literally take your breath away. Sheer basalt peaks, lining up one after the other, with green slopes amongst the weathered sandstone below. On the other side; the mountain kingdom of Lesotho with cut and paste mountains and valleys repeating as far as the eye can see (something that surprises many hikers who expect a mountain to go up and then down the other side)
The terrain has been shifting since the turn at Giants castle, and now we really feel like we are in the southern Drakensberg. An increased concentration of herds, homesteads and fynbos, with more prominent sandstone features in the foothills below. The breeze picks up dramatically in the afternoon as we approach the Rhino, its horn facing downwind, at the end of a wide runway jutting a kilometer out of the escarpment edge. Our first bit of discomfort due to weather causes us to stop only briefly at the many precarious viewpoints. In such conditions it’s never pleasant stopping without wind shelter; apart from the chill factor and flapping clothes, you can’t really speak to anyone due to the noise and head coverings. There are a host of camp spots on offer but tonight will require a tactical choice, and by late afternoon we drop into a valley below an interior peak, and break for afternoon tea next to a sheltered river. Paul heroically opts for a full bath, the rest of us are convinced we are still squeaky clean after last nights hot tub and opt for the lite version. I scout for a suitable campsite on the slopes of the mountain between us and the north-wester. The obvious spots are too muddy, but we finally settle on an acceptably flat and relatively fynbos free spot. Tents up, water on the boil, mattresses inflated, gear unpacked, dinner, hot chocolate, a bit of chatter, brush teeth, last toilet break, and into the sleeping bag. Lights out 

Drakensberg Grand Traverse – Day 9/10
19.44km  1677m ascent, 2138m descent

Day 9 starts with the well briefed pair of Helen and Kerry taking over the egg duties. They do a sterling job and set us up nicely for the day ahead. Apart from that, the wear and tear on bodies is starting to show. Not that anyone is complaining but Rachel is nursing some bad blisters and spending most of the time walking on her shoes like slippers! Kerry and Helen are well strapped up on the feet and shins, and most of us have chapped lips and hands. Sunshine, usual winter dryness combined with the many tasks that hiking and camping involves, means that zambuk (the hospital in your pocket if you’re South African), lip ice, and any kind of cream available, is doing the rounds. New fish Paul doesn’t know what all the fuss is about but generously dishes out the bee wax balm which is now worth more than its weight in gold.
Technically the day was going to be an easy wind down compared to earlier outings, but the wind and a few surprisingly longer inclines made it a decent days work. After a few valleys and climbs we find a nice shelter midway down a slope, behind some iced up cliffs, for lunch. Lying down on the ground is an old military trick to reduce wind and get more sun, and results in a few naps being taken before we head off on the final stretch. According to maps and tradition, the final pass to descend on the grand traverse is Thamathu, but in reality the true pass off the main escarpment is Isicatula (‘shoes’ in Zulu). Starting on a steep descent alongside a dolerite dyke, it takes a direct descent down into a well populated (by berg standards) valley with about 6 or 7 homesteads housing goats, sheep, ponies, donkeys and cattle. Some friendly young men approach us with a solar radio blaring and we are shocked (and impressed) when they turn down Pierre’s offer of his final 2 cigarettes. A first in my hiking career, and clearly some teens with strong conviction. They gladly receive the audio bible and stroll off listening to their new device. We continue winding down the valley on the opposite side of the river and finally reach our sheltered destination in the mouth of the valley. Camps next to rivers are always a pleasure; for easy water supply as well as drowning out any snoring in the camp. With just a short descent down to the finish tomorrow there is a feeling of elation, a lot of talk of food, but also a slight sadness that our journey across the mountains is coming to an end. Paul and I enjoy some good hot chocolate, with Lindt, and chat until we doze off  under a bright full moon. A few barrier bending gusts manage to navigate the various hills, ravines and cliffs between us and the North West, hitting us in short sharp gusts every ten minutes or so. A final push of the dragon’s breath to gently remind us of how  fortunate we’ve been on this traverse. It’ll take its rest by early morning, just  in time for the victory lap tomorrow. A prayer of thanks for a safe journey thus far. 

Drakensberg Grand Traverse – Day 10/10
13.26km  215m ascent, 915m descent

The body clock is accustomed to a 4:30am wake up by now, and even through we are camped next to a river , the lower altitude makes for an easier temperature to slide out of the sleeping bag. The morning routine of tea/coffee, oats, changing, packing up, toilet break, tent break, is now slickly co-ordinated between the crew. We seem to all be ready at around the same time. It normally takes around 1.5-2 hours from stove ignition to backpacks on, depending if the ground and tents are dry or wet. It sounds like a long time, but there are countless steps in the whole process; each one more complicated in comparison to convenient urban living. Folding, zipping, stuffing, unzipping, cleaning, drying, rolling, digging! The sun is just catching the hills in front of us  when we’re ready to get going. Our shuttle pick up is set for 11am and after some group shots, we head along the beautiful plateau towards the top of Thamathu pass. An unusually wide valley for these parts, flanked by basalt escarpment on either side, it’s clear to see why this makes a suitable finish to the grand traverse. From this point towards the south the escarpment edge dips a lot lower and the cliffs roll down more gently into KwaZulu Natal below.  Its seems a popular grazing area too and we head passed herds of sheep, cattle and goats before starting our final descent.
The sandstone castles, buttresses, boulders, and gullies, shaped over time by the winds and rains, make every corner of the descent interesting. Deposited during a dry and very windy period, the fine white sandstone erodes far more easily than the basalt (volcanic rock layer) above it, creating a myriad of caves and overhangs that form the canvas of the San Rock Art so prevalent in the area.  We stop at one of these large caves on the descent and discover the first group of hikers we’ve seen in ten days. Always pleasant to bump into fellow kindred spirits, but even better when they happen to be regular clients!  And more so when I spot an old friend I haven’t seen since childhood. Plenty of hugs chatter and laughter follow. Kwazulu-Natal sure is a small world but I don’t believe in coincidence. We were in contact on WhatsApp  for the first time in over 20 years last year (after the tragic passing of her sister), and it’s a very special and emotional catch up in person.
The last few kilometers meander through the sandstone formations and ridges before dipping down into the valley, crossing the river and arriving at a strangely well fenced, clean, and organised border post. Our passports don’t have any trace of leaving SA but we still require stamps to enter back in. Just like any berg hike there is no welcome party, finish line, or medal to collect. The last few kilometers are almost always a descent, and the feeling of finishing the hike is a more gradual release from when the finish line is in sight. No big fanfare; a few handshakes, hugs, and photos suffice.

The faithful shuttler Mbongi collects us in the Caravelle with the real short term reward awaiting at a coffee shop down the road. The post hike eating endeavours begin, before we say our goodbyes to Zach and Paul heading down to Durban, and we take the lengthy journey back to Witsieshoek (made longer by a few snack stops). A long hot shower followed by celebratory dinner and dessert takes place in the befitting setting on the slopes where we began just 10 days ago. The time, toils, adventures, and laughs we have experienced together since then, have formed a bond that would usually take years. No need for too many words, a medal or a prize. The Drakensberg grand traverse has made a shared imprint on us all.  Tomorrow we return to another reality, but first it’s time to climb into crisp sheets on a comfy mattress. Lights off, roll over and out.